Soaking It In

I´ve been down here for about 2 months now. Its funny how time flies. I left Nexpa a few days ago and stopped back in Ticla. There are some friends I wanted to hang and surf with here before I leave. Trying to be in the water as much as possible these last few days. I was a little sad to leave Nexpa, I had become good friends with Adolfo and had a lot of fun helping out in the restaurant there. Really great experience. I went to a spot north of Nexpa called wuawua the other day. I went with this guy Ricardo from Nexpa. We got there and there was no one out, Its a point break on really shallow rock and it was about head to a little overhead. Its a real fast steep wave. Lots of fun and barrels. We had been out for about 45 minutes and caught some great waves. I was sitting just outside the break when about 20 yards away I see a fairly large shark in the water. I have seen a few small sharks while surfing down here but this one was definitely of considerable size probably 7ft or so. I paddled over to where Ricardo was sitting in the lineup and told him what I had just seen. He then shows me his finger which is bleeding pretty well. He had wiped out in a wave and cut it pretty bad. So we both took the next wave in and called it a day. It was a really neat spot though!

These are some pics of the waves at wuawua before we paddled out. Perfect!

As I kicked back in my hammock today after a great morning session I felt very lucky appreciative for all the awesome people I have met here, the countless sunsets and great surf sessions. The uncontrollable fits of laughter and music jams. Coconut water for breakfast and tortillas till you wanna explode. My Spanish has improved as has my surfing. I´m also really grateful to all the people at home. Those that watch my dog while I scamper about Mexico playing in the water. I look forward to seeing everyone. Eating real veggies and in taking less sugar, big ol trees, a dark beer at the pub, beautiful single track. I feel spending time away always puts things in perspective for me. Really reminds me of everything I have.

much love

allan

¨The Crew¨ in Nexpa.














Beautiful morning in Nexpa

Nexpa

I am really bad at this posting stuff. So I will try and catch up. I'm in Nexpa right now and have been for a while. I seem to get stuck places. I find a place I like and have trouble leaving. I came down to Nexpa with Gabe, Heather and Rachelle from Ticla. A really awesome swell came in a few days after being here. I caught the best wave of my trip thus far. Quite a bit overhead and probably a 30 second ride. A perfect left. Its a cool spot, quiet and mellow with good surf. We stayed at Aqullias Del Mar a little restaurant\camping\rooms for rent place. We all 4 stayed in one room and took over the balcony next to the restaurant. I haven't laughed so hard in a while, we had a lot of fun. There was hardly anyone here when we arrived and there was a family from Morelia downstairs helping caretake the place. We shared the kitchen with them and ended up sharing meals and sitting around fires and laughing a lot. It was sad to see them go. Gabe and Heather left shortly after and Rachelle and I stayed for a couple more days. Then Rachelle left for the Caribbean to visit a friend in Tulum. I decided to stay and surf. I bought another surfboard. A fish, which I am having a lot of fun riding. After everyone left, Adolfo the guy running the place asked if I wanted to help in the restaurant since his brother who was helping him also left. So I started helping him about a week ago. I have my own room and balcony, get free food and don't have to do anything till after 5 so I can surf all morning. I even made a few tips when we catered a big gringo party down the beach the other day. He doesn't speak English so its great for my Spanish and I'm learning how to make some good traditional Mexican food. Adolfo left a couple of days and ago and left me in charge. Its funny how things fall into place if your open to it. I couldn't have asked for a better situation. A week ago I started doing an hour of meditation and an hour of yoga after my morning surf sessions and not drinking any alcohol. A sort of mind body cleanse. Its been really nice. A time to reflect and clear my head and physically I feel great. That's about it. My time down here is winding down and I will soon be heading back home. Until then.
much love
Allan

This is the view from the end of my bed.















This was the awesome swell. That day was sooooo fun!
















Show em your ugly mug

Oh waves how I miss you!

Hola from outside the taco stand!
Well I am still hanging out in La Ticla. Its a pretty easy place to get stuck. Small town, good food, great people. The waves have been fun, but lately they have been very small. the lack of good surf has led me to other endevors. A few days ago a group of us hitched a ride up river and floated our way back into town. The river was low so it was a lazy ride. It was interesting passing local women doing laundry in the rivcr. They got quite a kick out of us dragging bottom on the sand bar and popping a few of our intertubes. A couple hours later and the river brought us right out to the ocean where we proceeded to bodysurf the small intertubes in the waves. Being repeatedly thrown on the sand as the sun set. Makes you feel like a little kid! I moved from staying in a room to setting up my recently aquired tent these girls from Santa Cruz gave me. Nice and cheap. Less than 5 bucks a night to pitch a tent. The spot is right by the river and you can see the waves coming in from camp. I also bought a huge hammock, you could fit a small family in it. Its pretty great. I think next time I come to mexico to surf I will drive. There are some people here with the best camping setups. A person could easily live cheap and in style through the winter here. A pickup with a camper would be great. Next time! I will be here for a few more days through the next swell. Fingers crossed for good surf. Then possibly meet up with Rachelle when she arrives and cruise down south a ways. I´m starting to get the itch to move.

Much love

allan

The town square in La Ticla and a sunset off the point.

Mexico!

Well I have been here for a week or so now, guess I will quickly recap;




I flew in on new years eve to Puerto Vallarta, met up with Mark and stayed the night in Vallarta. Pretty mellow uneventful New Years. I was tired after getting in. Next day we hopped a bus from Vallarta to Manzanillo, it ended up taking a long time! We then got another bus to Tecoman, and yet again another to La Placita, we were headed for La Ticla which is on the coast in Michoacan, It was 1 in the morning and we had just passed a military convoy and checkpoint when the bus from Tecoman dropped us at the road that heads down to Ticla. No buses actually go to town (its really small). So we were looking at a pretty long walk but luckily some people in a jeep were headed to Ticla and we hitched a ride, once at the beach we pitched a tent and crashed out. The next morning woke to a beautiful sunny day with slight off shores and chest high waves. I surfed that morning and again at sunset. Ah Warm water, fresh fish tacos! Ticla is definitely a surf town, small but pretty busy the first few days when I got here, the waves are really consistent and can get pretty big (yesterday overhead). There are a lot of "local" tourists, students from Guadalajara, Morelia, even Mexico City and other towns in Mexico. I will be here for another week or so for sure, just surfing and hanging out. Not sure after that.
Much love
hasta lluego
allan