Soaking It In

I´ve been down here for about 2 months now. Its funny how time flies. I left Nexpa a few days ago and stopped back in Ticla. There are some friends I wanted to hang and surf with here before I leave. Trying to be in the water as much as possible these last few days. I was a little sad to leave Nexpa, I had become good friends with Adolfo and had a lot of fun helping out in the restaurant there. Really great experience. I went to a spot north of Nexpa called wuawua the other day. I went with this guy Ricardo from Nexpa. We got there and there was no one out, Its a point break on really shallow rock and it was about head to a little overhead. Its a real fast steep wave. Lots of fun and barrels. We had been out for about 45 minutes and caught some great waves. I was sitting just outside the break when about 20 yards away I see a fairly large shark in the water. I have seen a few small sharks while surfing down here but this one was definitely of considerable size probably 7ft or so. I paddled over to where Ricardo was sitting in the lineup and told him what I had just seen. He then shows me his finger which is bleeding pretty well. He had wiped out in a wave and cut it pretty bad. So we both took the next wave in and called it a day. It was a really neat spot though!

These are some pics of the waves at wuawua before we paddled out. Perfect!

As I kicked back in my hammock today after a great morning session I felt very lucky appreciative for all the awesome people I have met here, the countless sunsets and great surf sessions. The uncontrollable fits of laughter and music jams. Coconut water for breakfast and tortillas till you wanna explode. My Spanish has improved as has my surfing. I´m also really grateful to all the people at home. Those that watch my dog while I scamper about Mexico playing in the water. I look forward to seeing everyone. Eating real veggies and in taking less sugar, big ol trees, a dark beer at the pub, beautiful single track. I feel spending time away always puts things in perspective for me. Really reminds me of everything I have.

much love

allan

¨The Crew¨ in Nexpa.














Beautiful morning in Nexpa

Nexpa

I am really bad at this posting stuff. So I will try and catch up. I'm in Nexpa right now and have been for a while. I seem to get stuck places. I find a place I like and have trouble leaving. I came down to Nexpa with Gabe, Heather and Rachelle from Ticla. A really awesome swell came in a few days after being here. I caught the best wave of my trip thus far. Quite a bit overhead and probably a 30 second ride. A perfect left. Its a cool spot, quiet and mellow with good surf. We stayed at Aqullias Del Mar a little restaurant\camping\rooms for rent place. We all 4 stayed in one room and took over the balcony next to the restaurant. I haven't laughed so hard in a while, we had a lot of fun. There was hardly anyone here when we arrived and there was a family from Morelia downstairs helping caretake the place. We shared the kitchen with them and ended up sharing meals and sitting around fires and laughing a lot. It was sad to see them go. Gabe and Heather left shortly after and Rachelle and I stayed for a couple more days. Then Rachelle left for the Caribbean to visit a friend in Tulum. I decided to stay and surf. I bought another surfboard. A fish, which I am having a lot of fun riding. After everyone left, Adolfo the guy running the place asked if I wanted to help in the restaurant since his brother who was helping him also left. So I started helping him about a week ago. I have my own room and balcony, get free food and don't have to do anything till after 5 so I can surf all morning. I even made a few tips when we catered a big gringo party down the beach the other day. He doesn't speak English so its great for my Spanish and I'm learning how to make some good traditional Mexican food. Adolfo left a couple of days and ago and left me in charge. Its funny how things fall into place if your open to it. I couldn't have asked for a better situation. A week ago I started doing an hour of meditation and an hour of yoga after my morning surf sessions and not drinking any alcohol. A sort of mind body cleanse. Its been really nice. A time to reflect and clear my head and physically I feel great. That's about it. My time down here is winding down and I will soon be heading back home. Until then.
much love
Allan

This is the view from the end of my bed.















This was the awesome swell. That day was sooooo fun!
















Show em your ugly mug