Soaking It In

I´ve been down here for about 2 months now. Its funny how time flies. I left Nexpa a few days ago and stopped back in Ticla. There are some friends I wanted to hang and surf with here before I leave. Trying to be in the water as much as possible these last few days. I was a little sad to leave Nexpa, I had become good friends with Adolfo and had a lot of fun helping out in the restaurant there. Really great experience. I went to a spot north of Nexpa called wuawua the other day. I went with this guy Ricardo from Nexpa. We got there and there was no one out, Its a point break on really shallow rock and it was about head to a little overhead. Its a real fast steep wave. Lots of fun and barrels. We had been out for about 45 minutes and caught some great waves. I was sitting just outside the break when about 20 yards away I see a fairly large shark in the water. I have seen a few small sharks while surfing down here but this one was definitely of considerable size probably 7ft or so. I paddled over to where Ricardo was sitting in the lineup and told him what I had just seen. He then shows me his finger which is bleeding pretty well. He had wiped out in a wave and cut it pretty bad. So we both took the next wave in and called it a day. It was a really neat spot though!

These are some pics of the waves at wuawua before we paddled out. Perfect!

As I kicked back in my hammock today after a great morning session I felt very lucky appreciative for all the awesome people I have met here, the countless sunsets and great surf sessions. The uncontrollable fits of laughter and music jams. Coconut water for breakfast and tortillas till you wanna explode. My Spanish has improved as has my surfing. I´m also really grateful to all the people at home. Those that watch my dog while I scamper about Mexico playing in the water. I look forward to seeing everyone. Eating real veggies and in taking less sugar, big ol trees, a dark beer at the pub, beautiful single track. I feel spending time away always puts things in perspective for me. Really reminds me of everything I have.

much love

allan

¨The Crew¨ in Nexpa.














Beautiful morning in Nexpa